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Set backs, Frustration & Goals.

MyDogBitz

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Dog training isn't linear. You rarely move in a straight line from point A to point B. Be sure to remind yourself this as you go through it.

I've been working on building my dogs power and arousal with backtie work. My dog is a naturally excitable dog. He's always on the go and ready to get after it. Some of this is exuberant puppy energy and a lot of it is genetics. Anyway, in a short time I noticed this power is spilling over into unwanted situations.

We're in a casual obedience club. We meet on Thursdays. It's typical AKC style obedience for pet dogs. I'm only there as an avenue to work my dog in close proximity to other dogs. My dog is the only high drive working line dog in the group. My dog is not reactive and he's friendly with other dogs but this is a challenging environment for him. That's why we go. I want him to be challenged.

Last night I noticed that his arousal and behavior from the backtie work was bleeding over into his regular obedience work. He was struggling to relax between reps and he started to get pushy and demanding with me after verbal corrections.

Speaking honestly, I felt myself getting frustrated with him. He was really in rare form. But I took a breath and relaxed. After all, he wasn't being disobedient, he's only doing what I've been showing him to do. So I have to take a step back and teach him how to regulate his emotions from one moment to another.

Tonight we had a play session and I went in with a plan. I took progressively longer breaks in-between reps and I was very conscious to put the breaks on queue. "Enough" signals a break. "Ready" signals a start.

While we were playing I progressively worked him further into arousal and then stretched the duration of the breaks as well. I paid careful attention to my markers and timing. I set him up so I could use "NO" and I started to speed up his OUT as well.

This went really well. We'll work on it a bunch over the weekend and next week I'll introduce the concept into the backtie work.

If you guys are new, or largely self-taught like I am, don't get frustrated with your dog when things aren't going your way. Take a step back and think about what they're doing and why they're doing it. Take a break if you have to. Remember your goals and write them down if that helps you stick to them.

Most importantly, make sure you love up on your dog as much as possible, we're all they got.
 
Dog training isn't linear. You rarely move in a straight line from point A to point B. Be sure to remind yourself this as you go through it.

I've been working on building my dogs power and arousal with backtie work. My dog is a naturally excitable dog. He's always on the go and ready to get after it. Some of this is exuberant puppy energy and a lot of it is genetics. Anyway, in a short time I noticed this power is spilling over into unwanted situations.

We're in a casual obedience club. We meet on Thursdays. It's typical AKC style obedience for pet dogs. I'm only there as an avenue to work my dog in close proximity to other dogs. My dog is the only high drive working line dog in the group. My dog is not reactive and he's friendly with other dogs but this is a challenging environment for him. That's why we go. I want him to be challenged.

Last night I noticed that his arousal and behavior from the backtie work was bleeding over into his regular obedience work. He was struggling to relax between reps and he started to get pushy and demanding with me after verbal corrections.

Speaking honestly, I felt myself getting frustrated with him. He was really in rare form. But I took a breath and relaxed. After all, he wasn't being disobedient, he's only doing what I've been showing him to do. So I have to take a step back and teach him how to regulate his emotions from one moment to another.

Tonight we had a play session and I went in with a plan. I took progressively longer breaks in-between reps and I was very conscious to put the breaks on queue. "Enough" signals a break. "Ready" signals a start.

While we were playing I progressively worked him further into arousal and then stretched the duration of the breaks as well. I paid careful attention to my markers and timing. I set him up so I could use "NO" and I started to speed up his OUT as well.

This went really well. We'll work on it a bunch over the weekend and next week I'll introduce the concept into the backtie work.

If you guys are new, or largely self-taught like I am, don't get frustrated with your dog when things aren't going your way. Take a step back and think about what they're doing and why they're doing it. Take a break if you have to. Remember your goals and write them down if that helps you stick to them.

Most importantly, make sure you love up on your dog as much as possible, we're all they got.
This is such a grounded take. I really like how you caught yourself in that moment of frustration, that’s the part most handlers miss. It’s easy to correct what we see, but harder to step back and realize we created that state.

What you did here, using arousal management as part of the plan, that’s exactly how you turn chaos into control. Those small intentional breaks (Enough / Ready) are massive because they’re teaching neutrality without dulling drive.

When you introduce it back into the backtie work, it’s going to balance the equation beautifully. Controlled power > wild energy every time.
 
This is such a grounded take. I really like how you caught yourself in that moment of frustration, that’s the part most handlers miss. It’s easy to correct what we see, but harder to step back and realize we created that state.

What you did here, using arousal management as part of the plan, that’s exactly how you turn chaos into control. Those small intentional breaks (Enough / Ready) are massive because they’re teaching neutrality without dulling drive.

When you introduce it back into the backtie work, it’s going to balance the equation beautifully. Controlled power > wild energy every time.
Hopefully! That's the plan anyway. LOL.
 
This was such a fun read, I learn so much from your posts! It’s cool how you break things down like that instead of just pushing through frustration. I never realized how much timing and breaks mattered until I started following along here.

Do you think backtie work is something beginners could try eventually, or is it more for experienced handlers? Also… I love that “enough” cue idea, might steal that for my future pup one day
 
This is such a grounded take. I really like how you caught yourself in that moment of frustration, that’s the part most handlers miss. It’s easy to correct what we see, but harder to step back and realize we created that state.

What you did here, using arousal management as part of the plan, that’s exactly how you turn chaos into control. Those small intentional breaks (Enough / Ready) are massive because they’re teaching neutrality without dulling drive.

When you introduce it back into the backtie work, it’s going to balance the equation beautifully. Controlled power > wild energy every time.
Hopefully! That's the plan anyway.
This was such a fun read, I learn so much from your posts! It’s cool how you break things down like that instead of just pushing through frustration. I never realized how much timing and breaks mattered until I started following along here.

Do you think backtie work is something beginners could try eventually, or is it more for experienced handlers? Also… I love that “enough” cue idea, might steal that for my future pup one day

It's not something I'd recommend for first time or novice dog owners. Not without guidance from more experienced trainers anyway. Also, ask yourself "What am I trying to achieve and what will my dog get out of it?" Before doing any type of training, especially something like drive building. It's not suitable for all dogs.

My dog's play drive is already pretty intense. You could lose a finger if he didn't no how to target, and this is before we did any backtie work. LOL.
 
Man, you make me feel like I should give my dog a TED Talk before fetch. Great read, love the reminder to take a breath and not take it personally.
 
Hopefully! That's the plan anyway.


It's not something I'd recommend for first time or novice dog owners. Not without guidance from more experienced trainers anyway. Also, ask yourself "What am I trying to achieve and what will my dog get out of it?" Before doing any type of training, especially something like drive building. It's not suitable for all dogs.

My dog's play drive is already pretty intense. You could lose a finger if he didn't no how to target, and this is before we did any backtie work. LOL.
That totally makes sense, definitely sounds like something to leave to the pros until I’ve got some experience (and all 10 fingers intact). I love how you explained it though, it gives me a new appreciation for how much control and awareness go into that kind of work.

Do you think foundation stuff like engagement games or basic tug could help prepare for drive-building later on if I decide I need it for what I want to do? How does all of his drive work with your partner, do they mind it?
 
That totally makes sense, definitely sounds like something to leave to the pros until I’ve got some experience (and all 10 fingers intact). I love how you explained it though, it gives me a new appreciation for how much control and awareness go into that kind of work.

Do you think foundation stuff like engagement games or basic tug could help prepare for drive-building later on if I decide I need it for what I want to do? How does all of his drive work with your partner, do they mind it?
Tug, engagement games, hiking, anything you and your dog can do together, is great and really it's necessary with this breed. German Shepherds LIVE to interact with their people. These aren't dogs for couch potatoes, especially while young.

Certainly tug and fetch can bring out a dogs drive but that's what we want. We want to give these amazing creatures an avenue to fulfill their genetic desires.

I'm a novice but I explain drive like this: a dog's genetic proclivity for energy, desire and persistence. "Drive" is something a dog is born with. All dogs will have some level of drive in them. It doesn't mean that it's always shown or that the dog has ever displayed it. But it's there. The degree of drive is breed and genetic specific. When people talk about "building drive" they're really talking about bring the dogs full genetic power out and have it manifested into action and work.

At least this is how I see it.

My dog has a ton of drive. It was noticeable the first five minutes he was in my house. Chasing balls, exploring, getting into things, going up to people without fear or apprehension. All great things if you can harness it.

The good thing is, he's a total love bug. He wants nothing more than to snuggle up and love on family members. Again, this is genetic IMO. He's fantastic with the family but he can be a bit overwhelming at times. When my son gets home from school my 85lb 9 month old puppy gets "zoomies" crashes into things and goes bananas. He has no body awareness whatsoever. Haha. It's a lot. He's a momma's boy for sure.

I was very clear with the breeder, I wanted a drivey dog who was trustworthy with the family. And boy did I get that in spades. LOL.

This dog is socially confident, friendly, yet neutral to strangers. He doesn't even care about other people unless I let him say hello. Then it's a party.

Because of these qualities I'm nearly certain to do personal protection training with him. He learns to put things into context quite well. So I think he's a good candidate for it.
 
Tug, engagement games, hiking, anything you and your dog can do together, is great and really it's necessary with this breed. German Shepherds LIVE to interact with their people. These aren't dogs for couch potatoes, especially while young.

Certainly tug and fetch can bring out a dogs drive but that's what we want. We want to give these amazing creatures an avenue to fulfill their genetic desires.

I'm a novice but I explain drive like this: a dog's genetic proclivity for energy, desire and persistence. "Drive" is something a dog is born with. All dogs will have some level of drive in them. It doesn't mean that it's always shown or that the dog has ever displayed it. But it's there. The degree of drive is breed and genetic specific. When people talk about "building drive" they're really talking about bring the dogs full genetic power out and have it manifested into action and work.

At least this is how I see it.

My dog has a ton of drive. It was noticeable the first five minutes he was in my house. Chasing balls, exploring, getting into things, going up to people without fear or apprehension. All great things if you can harness it.

The good thing is, he's a total love bug. He wants nothing more than to snuggle up and love on family members. Again, this is genetic IMO. He's fantastic with the family but he can be a bit overwhelming at times. When my son gets home from school my 85lb 9 month old puppy gets "zoomies" crashes into things and goes bananas. He has no body awareness whatsoever. Haha. It's a lot. He's a momma's boy for sure.

I was very clear with the breeder, I wanted a drivey dog who was trustworthy with the family. And boy did I get that in spades. LOL.

This dog is socially confident, friendly, yet neutral to strangers. He doesn't even care about other people unless I let him say hello. Then it's a party.

Because of these qualities I'm nearly certain to do personal protection training with him. He learns to put things into context quite well. So I think he's a good candidate for it.
This is super helpful, thank you for explaining it that way, I didn’t realize “drive” was so genetic rather than something you build from scratch. It’s really cool how you described channeling it instead of fighting it. Your pup sounds like such a handful but in the best way 😂

When you mentioned “no body awareness,” that made me laugh.
 
Hopefully! That's the plan anyway.


It's not something I'd recommend for first time or novice dog owners. Not without guidance from more experienced trainers anyway. Also, ask yourself "What am I trying to achieve and what will my dog get out of it?" Before doing any type of training, especially something like drive building. It's not suitable for all dogs.

My dog's play drive is already pretty intense. You could lose a finger if he didn't no how to target, and this is before we did any backtie work. LOL.
How old is your dog?
 
Tug, engagement games, hiking, anything you and your dog can do together, is great and really it's necessary with this breed. German Shepherds LIVE to interact with their people. These aren't dogs for couch potatoes, especially while young.

Certainly tug and fetch can bring out a dogs drive but that's what we want. We want to give these amazing creatures an avenue to fulfill their genetic desires.

I'm a novice but I explain drive like this: a dog's genetic proclivity for energy, desire and persistence. "Drive" is something a dog is born with. All dogs will have some level of drive in them. It doesn't mean that it's always shown or that the dog has ever displayed it. But it's there. The degree of drive is breed and genetic specific. When people talk about "building drive" they're really talking about bring the dogs full genetic power out and have it manifested into action and work.

At least this is how I see it.

My dog has a ton of drive. It was noticeable the first five minutes he was in my house. Chasing balls, exploring, getting into things, going up to people without fear or apprehension. All great things if you can harness it.

The good thing is, he's a total love bug. He wants nothing more than to snuggle up and love on family members. Again, this is genetic IMO. He's fantastic with the family but he can be a bit overwhelming at times. When my son gets home from school my 85lb 9 month old puppy gets "zoomies" crashes into things and goes bananas. He has no body awareness whatsoever. Haha. It's a lot. He's a momma's boy for sure.

I was very clear with the breeder, I wanted a drivey dog who was trustworthy with the family. And boy did I get that in spades. LOL.

This dog is socially confident, friendly, yet neutral to strangers. He doesn't even care about other people unless I let him say hello. Then it's a party.

Because of these qualities I'm nearly certain to do personal protection training with him. He learns to put things into context quite well. So I think he's a good candidate for it.
After training a hundred dogs, I can confidently say some dogs have 0, actually negative drive. I don't understand it. Especially with a working line shepherd.

Me, poking the dog with a stick: get up
The dog: why?
 
Oh, he a puppy puppy. Wow you're doing such a great job. I am so glad those puppy days are behind me LOLOL
Thx. Yeah, puppies are a lot and my puppy is certainly a lot. Haha. He does everything with intensity. He even sleeps intensely. LOL.

No BS, no one in the household ever saw him sleep on his own, outside of his crate, even once, before he was 6 months old.
 
Thx. Yeah, puppies are a lot and my puppy is certainly a lot. Haha. He does everything with intensity. He even sleeps intensely. LOL.

No BS, no one in the household ever saw him sleep on his own, outside of his crate, even once, before he was 6 months old.
My dog had gaba and traz before her spay for 48 hours and never fell asleep 💀💀💀
 
Tug, engagement games, hiking, anything you and your dog can do together, is great and really it's necessary with this breed. German Shepherds LIVE to interact with their people. These aren't dogs for couch potatoes, especially while young.

Certainly tug and fetch can bring out a dogs drive but that's what we want. We want to give these amazing creatures an avenue to fulfill their genetic desires.

I'm a novice but I explain drive like this: a dog's genetic proclivity for energy, desire and persistence. "Drive" is something a dog is born with. All dogs will have some level of drive in them. It doesn't mean that it's always shown or that the dog has ever displayed it. But it's there. The degree of drive is breed and genetic specific. When people talk about "building drive" they're really talking about bring the dogs full genetic power out and have it manifested into action and work.

At least this is how I see it.

My dog has a ton of drive. It was noticeable the first five minutes he was in my house. Chasing balls, exploring, getting into things, going up to people without fear or apprehension. All great things if you can harness it.

The good thing is, he's a total love bug. He wants nothing more than to snuggle up and love on family members. Again, this is genetic IMO. He's fantastic with the family but he can be a bit overwhelming at times. When my son gets home from school my 85lb 9 month old puppy gets "zoomies" crashes into things and goes bananas. He has no body awareness whatsoever. Haha. It's a lot. He's a momma's boy for sure.

I was very clear with the breeder, I wanted a drivey dog who was trustworthy with the family. And boy did I get that in spades. LOL.

This dog is socially confident, friendly, yet neutral to strangers. He doesn't even care about other people unless I let him say hello. Then it's a party.

Because of these qualities I'm nearly certain to do personal protection training with him. He learns to put things into context quite well. So I think he's a good candidate for it.
Have you done protection training before?
 
Yes, but not on my own. This time I'll do it without another trainer, unless I hit road blocks.
I am interested in protection training, but because my GSD is a service dog, I can't cross train her.

How did you find your trainer? Also, what specific work do you do?
 
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